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Are you planning a trip around the Yucatán? With drive times, where to visit and top things to do, come check out my 3-week road trip itinerary!
When my wife Chloe turned 40, she wanted to do something really special to mark the occasion. To celebrate, she wanted to go back to her favourite country in the world – Mexico. She wanted margaritas on the beach, delicious tacos on the street, and to soak up that summer sunshine. As her husband, who am I to deny her that wish!
Together, we’ve been to Mexico a fair few times over the years. This time was very different though with two kids in tow. Our son was nearly 3, and our daughter was just 5 months old, so we knew it would be an adventure (read: chaos). We went on a big month-long voyage with our son to Vietnam when he was young, so we wanted to do a similar trip for our daughter too. We’re travellers, and we want them to grow up as travellers too. That means driving them around the Yucatán on a 3 week escape!
As we’ve been to the Yucatán before, we had a rough idea of where we wanted to go and what we wanted to do. We didn’t just want to do Cancun to Playa del Carmen to Tulum. Instead, we came up with a circular route that we think is the perfect 3 week itinerary for the Yucatán Peninsula.
In this blog post, I am going to tell you all about our route, what to do in each place (especially for those of you with kids), and I’ll even throw in a few hotel suggestions too. I really want this to be the ultimate guide for planning your Mexican adventure. And trust me, those margaritas really do taste better on the beach!
Contents:
My suggested route
When we were coming up with our plan, I really wanted it to be a circular route. Personally, I don’t like doubling back on myself. A lot of itineraries will include places like Holbox and Valladolid, but they then double back to Cancun to get south. I love exploring new places, so I wanted to visit gems like Campeche which is a bit more out the way.
This is what our itinerary looked like:
Cancun > Isla Holbox > Mérida > Campeche > Bacalar > Tulum > Cancun (home)
- Cancun – 3 days
- Isla Holbox – 5 days
- Mérida – 3 days
- Campeche – 3 days
- Bacalar – 4 days
- Tulum – 3 days
We spent the most time in Holbox because it is one of our favourite places in the world. We first came here 8 years ago, and it’s still one of the dreamiest places to visit in Mexico.
For me, I absolutely loved Bacalar. It’s now my new favourite destination in Mexico and I easily could’ve spent longer there. When you see the colour of the water you’ll understand why!
Getting around the Yucatán
If you’re just sticking to Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum, you can get away with ADO buses, colectivos and taxis. However, if you’re looking at doing a trip similar to ours then you’ll need to hire a car.
I hired our car from Discover Cars. I always find these guys the cheapest booking platform for car hire, and the service has always been excellent. Luckily, we were upgraded to a slightly bigger car when I went to pick it up which made our epic road trip that little bit easier. Winning.
Some journeys are looooooong. It’s easy to forget how big Mexico is. Our longest journey was from Campeche to Bacalar. That was about 7 hours in total, though you can break it up and stay in Xpujil for the night if you want. Just beware that you’ll have to factor in journey times into your overall itinerary.
I would say the driving in the Yucatán is very straightforward, and dare I say even quite boring. Once you get on the toll roads, there aren’t a lot of cars on the road or things to look at. It just means you need a cracking road trip playlist to sing along to.
The only place I found driving difficult was around Tulum. This was because of traffic and the number of scooters zooming around the place. Also, the road parallel to the beach is a little to narrow for my liking!
One other thing to be aware of with driving in Mexico is there are often police check points dotted around. You usually just have to show your passport or drivers licence and you’ll be waved along. It can be a bit worrying the first time you see one though!
Stop one: Cancun
Time spent here: 3 days
Things to do: Relax and recover, visit Isla Mujeres
Where to stay with kids: Blue Vista Apartment
Where to stay without kids: Villa del Palmar Cancun
Cancun has a bit of a Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde personality. Some people love it; some people can’t get out of there quickly enough. Despite the fact that is has that spring break party reputation, I actually think it’s an amazing place to visit. The beaches are gorgeous, the water is stunningly blue, and it has some amazing attractions in the area like the MUSA Underwater Museum and whale shark snorkelling.
As our flight from London was 10 hours, we wanted to stay in Cancun for a few days to relax and recover. We knew the kids would be jetlagged, so we thought it was a good idea just to have a bit of pool time and start the trip lazily.
We actually hired a two-bed apartment in the north of Cancun so we had enough space and weren’t all in one hotel room. Our apartment had its own swimming pool and beach access, so it was the perfect place to start the trip.
It was also a short walk to the ferry terminal to Isla Mujeres. Isla Mujeres is without a doubt one of the most popular day trips from Cancun. Just 45-minutes off the coast, Isla Mujeres is a little island with pristine beaches and palm trees. It’s such a laid back place and it’s great spending the day there.
If you’re looking at doing a day, then tours like this one includes all transfers from Cancún, a sail across the Caribbean with an open bar, a snorkelling stop at a coral reef, a buffet lunch at a beach club, and some free time to explore the island or relax on Playa Norte before heading back to Cancún.
Stop two: Isla Holbox
Journey time: 2h:30 to 3h
Time spent here: 5 days
Things to do: Enjoy the beach clubs, eat at the street food market, watch sunset on the pier, do a bioluminescence tour
Where to stay with kids: Hotel Boutique Naj Casa Holbox (get the apartment)
Where to stay without kids: Amaite Holbox
Holbox is a little slice of paradise just off the northern coast of Quintana Roo, and it is absolutely gorgeous. As I mentioned, this is Chloe’s favourite place in Mexico. It’s one of those places where just chilling in a beach club listening to the waves lap on the beach is an activity.
Getting here is very straightforward. It’s a two-hour drive to Chiquila, a tiny port town where you catch the ferry to Holbox. Ferries are every 30 minutes from 06:30 to 20:30 and cost $330 per person. Kids are $200 – I think under 4s are free. It seemed to be on a judgement basis as opposed to anything more official.
Holbox is a car-free island, so you have to park your car in Chiquila. There are a number of small car park operators around the ferry terminal. Just pick any one closest to the ferry – they are all the same. It’s a little daunting leaving your car in an unknown car park, but it’s what everyone does. Car parking is $100 per day.
Holbox is the best of Mexico all on one little island with a number of hotels and beach clubs dotted along the coast. The main town is just a 10-minute walk from the port and is made up of a few cluster of streets. Here, everyone is on island time, and the only things you have to worry about is where you left your flip-flops or which restaurant to eat in for dinner.
For beach clubs, I’d recommend Zomay. This place is only $250 for a bed which is redeemable against food. Most beach clubs are $500-750, so this is one of the cheaper clubs. We went here a couple of times and it’s super chill. Their fish ceviche was some of the best we had on the island too.
For food options I’d recommend Piedra Santa, Las Hamacas and the night market. Piedra Santa is a really nice date place for the evening with killer cocktails, Las Hamacas is in a lovely spot by the beach, and the night market is great fun with lots of different options to choose from.
For one of the evenings, squeeze in a bioluminescence tour. This is one of the most popular things to do on the island, and it’s honestly a bit of a magical experience. Just off the shores of Isla Holbox, the water comes alive at night thanks to tiny microorganisms that glow when disturbed. It means every movement – whether it’s your hand swishing through the water or fish darting past – lights up in this neon blue sparkle.
I know 5 days here might sound a lot, but the time flies by once you’re here. As I said, everyone is on island time, and it’s easy losing yourself trying to find the best cocktail or taco spot. I really hope you love it here as much as we do!
If you’re looking for a more comprehensive guide, then make sure you check out Chloe’s amazing article on all the best things to do in Holbox.
Stop three: Mérida
Journey time: 4h to 5h (depending on connections and stops)
Time spent here: 3 days
Things to do: Explore the colonial city of Mérida, visit the cenotes at Homun, wander around the pyramids of Uxmal
Where to stay with kids: Casa Michela (it even has a pool!)
Where to stay without kids: Hotel Hacienda Mérida
When you’re ready to peel yourself away from Holbox, Mérida awaits you. This is where the trip starts to feel very different. You’re swapping sandy toes and beach clubs for colourful colonial streets, bustling markets, and a proper taste of authentic Mexican culture.
Getting to Mérida is quite a long drive. First, you’ve got to get off the island and pick up your car. That can take up to an hour. Then the drive itself is 3h:30m along a very expensive and very boring toll road. Still, it’s well worth it when you get to Mérida.
Mérida is often referred to as the cultural capital of the Yucatán, and it’s easy to see why. The city is full of history, from its grand plazas to its pastel-coloured mansions lining the streets. At the heart of it all is Plaza Grande, a lively square where locals gather in the evenings to chat and soak up the atmosphere.
Just around the corner from Plaza Grande is the Museum of Yucateca Gastronomy. This is one of the top rated restaurants in the city and the food is delicious on every level. It’s a really cool insight into the food of the Yucatán, and it’s very different to other parts of Mexico.
One of the things about Mérida is it’s hot. It’s put-yourself-in-an-oven-and-turn-the-heat-up-to-200-degrees hot. I’d recommend exploring early in the day and then retreating somewhere with air con or a pool in the afternoon. Then you can come out again in the evening. One place we really enjoyed were the fountains at Gran Parque la Plancha. This is like a giant splash park that the kids can run around in – it’s the perfect way to cool off!
Another way to beat the heat is to escape it entirely by heading to the cenotes around Homún. This was one of our favourite days of the whole trip. There are loads of cenotes in this area, and they’re all slightly different – some are open like natural swimming pools, while others are cave-like with stalactites hanging from the ceiling. It honestly felt like stepping into another world. We visited Cenote Santa Barbara which is like a cenote theme park with four different cenotes to swim in, a splash park for the kids and a very good restaurant too. Our toddler absolutely loved this place, and we were surprised at how safe everything was.
Another amazing day trip from Mérida is heading out to Uxmal, one of the most impressive Mayan archaeological sites in the region. About an hour’s drive from the city, this place feels a lot quieter and less touristy than Chichén Itzá, which makes exploring it with kids so much easier. The standout structure here is the Pyramid of the Magician, a towering and slightly mysterious pyramid with rounded edges that looks unlike anything else in Mexico. We spent a good couple of hours wandering around the ruins, climbing up viewpoints, and trying to imagine what life was like here over 1,000 years ago. There’s very little shade though, so go early in the morning, take plenty of water, and don’t forget hats and sunscreen. You can thank me for that advice later!
Overall, Mérida is a brilliant contrast to Holbox. It’s busy, full of life, and it gives you a much deeper insight into this part of Mexico. It might not have the beaches, but it more than makes up for it with character and charm.
Stop four: Campeche
Journey time: 2h (a very easy drive this one!)
Time spent here: 3 days
Things to do: Wander along the Malecon, take photos of Campeche Cathedral, spend the day at Playa Bonita, explore the ruins of Edzná
Where to stay with kids: Historical Green House Campeche (also has a little pool)
Where to stay without kids: Hotel Boutique Casa Don Gustavo
When planning our trip here, I really had to sell Campeche to Chole. It’s a bit out the way and very similar to Mérida as an old colonial town with a big square in the middle, but I’m really glad we came here.
Campeche is actually a UNESCO World Heritage city, and as soon as you arrive you can see why. The historic centre is surrounded by old fortified walls, and inside you’ll find rows of pastel-coloured houses, quiet cobbled streets, and hardly any tourists compared to other places in the Yucatán. It’s one of those places that’s perfect for just wandering around without any real plan.
One of our favourite things to do was stroll along the Malecón de Campeche in the late afternoon. This seafront promenade stretches for miles and is ideal for walking, cycling, or just letting the kids run wild as the sun starts to set. There’s a really local feel here with families out and about and street vendors selling snacks like corn and marquesitas. There’s an amazing water fountain show here in the evening too, so add that to your list of things to do.
If you fancy a beach day, then Playa Bonita is about a 20-minute drive from the centre. It’s not quite the same powdery white sand and turquoise water you’ll find on the Caribbean side, but it’s still a great spot for a relaxed day by the sea, especially with kids. There are facilities, shaded areas, and calm waters which make it a really easy activity for the family.
Another highlight is visiting the nearby ruins of Edzná. This is about an hour’s drive away and is far less crowded than the more famous sites in the region. I thought Uxmal would be hard to beat, but I actually preferred Edzná in the end as it was so quiet – it felt like we had the place to ourselves. The main pyramid here is seriously impressive too, and you can still climb parts of the ruins for some amazing views over the jungle. It felt like a bit of a hidden gem and was one of those places where you could really let your imagination run wild.
Overall, Campeche was one of the biggest surprises of the trip. It might not be on everyone’s itinerary, but that’s exactly what makes it so special. It’s colourful, calm, and completely unspoilt – a perfect little stop before heading back to the Caribbean coast.
Stop five: Bacalar
Journey time: 5h:30m to 7h (depending on stops)
Time spent here: 4 days
Things to do: Float along the water at Los Rápidos de Bacalar, go on a boat tour of the lagoon, eat lots of ceviche
Where to stay with kids: Bacalar Townhouse (minutes from the centre)
Where to stay without kids: Cristalino Lagoon Front Hotel
Ah Bacalar. This was hands down my favourite stop on our Yucatán road trip. The water here is like nothing I’ve ever seen – shifting shades of blue that almost don’t look real. It’s easy to see why they call it the Lagoon of Seven Colours.
Getting from Campeche to Bacalar is a very long journey, the longest of the trip. In total it takes about 5h:30m of driving, so nearer to 7 hours depending on stops. One place you can stop along the way to break up the journey is Xpujil. Otherwise, set aside the day and bomb it through to Bacalar. I promise you the effort is worth it!
Sometimes it’s really hard describing a place when it comes down to a feeling. The moment we arrived in Bacalar and explored the town, I knew immediately it was a place I’d fall in love. With its slow pace of life, colourful street art dotted all around the town, and the bright blue lagoon a constant backdrop, it just has so much going for it.
Unsurprisingly, the best things to do in Bacalar all revolve around the water. One place you have to visit is Los Rápidos de Bacalar. This is a natural gully between the lagoons where the current gently flows, creating a perfect natural swim spot. You jump in the water and float from one side of the gully to the other. We spent hours drifting along with the kids and they absolutely loved it. Hopefully my photos will show you how beautiful it is here.
Another way to explore the water is to hop on a boat tour of the lagoon. You’ll see people selling these tours all over town and it costs $500 per person. On this tour you’ll visit Cenote Negro, Cenote Esmeralda, Cenote Cocalitos, before exploring Canal de los Piratas. It’s a two-hour tour and includes swim stops along the way. It’s also a great way to see the water change colours as the sun moves across the sky. Alternatively, tours like this one include drinks if you’re looking for a longer experience.
Stop five: Tulum
Journey time: 2h:30m
Time spent here: 3 days
Things to do: Enjoy the beach, explore some of the surrounding cenotes, visit Tulum ruins
Where to stay with kids: Aldea Xaan Ha Tulum (we really loved this place)
Where to stay without kids: Wakax Hacienda (one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever stayed in)
Tulum has exploded in popularity over the years. When I first came here in 2014, it was still a sleepy little beach town with boho vibes. Now it’s packed with high-end beach clubs, trendy restaurants, and pretentious art installations dotted all over the town. I also found it was noticeably more expensive than other parts of the Yucatán, so budget accordingly.
Despite the crowds, Tulum still has its charms. The beaches are incredible with soft white sand, clear turquoise waters and vibey restaurants. We spent the day at Delek Beach Club. Again, this was on the cheaper side of things, but it was in a lovely spot and it had a swimming pool too. I swear, all you need is sand and a bit of water for the kids to splash around in and they are happy.
One of the things Tulum is famous for is the number of cenotes dotted around the area. Over the years I’ve ticked off a fair few. Dos Ojos is the most popular, but it can get very busy once the coachload of tours turn up. Gran Cenote (which include the Pit) is probably the best for diving. I’ll also give a shout out to Cenote Angelita for diving too; I really love that one.
If you’re looking for a quieter family friendly spot, then I’d really recommend Cenote Yax-kin. I went there on this trip and it was gorgeous. Lots of natural pools to swim in, and it was really secluded too. Our toddler particularly loved playing in the water here.
And of course, no trip to Tulum is complete without visiting the Tulum Ruins. Perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean, these Mayan ruins are picture-perfect and full of history. We wandered around imagining what life was like here centuries ago, and the views over the ocean made it feel even more special.
Tulum is definitely more touristy than other stops on our route, but it has a laid-back energy that makes it easy to unwind. It’s the perfect way to end a Yucatán road trip – a mix of culture, adventure, and sun-soaked beach time.
Our epic Yucatan itinerary
And that’s a wrap on our Yucatán road trip! From the tranquil beaches of Holbox to the colourful streets of Mérida, the hidden ruins of Campeche, the magical lagoon of Bacalar, and finally the sun-soaked shores of Tulum, this route has a little bit of everything. It’s long, sure, and some drives are a stretch, but the diversity of experiences makes it so worth it. I am so happy we did a circular route too, and this route really does work!
For us, this trip wasn’t just about ticking off destinations – it was about slowing down, enjoying the little moments, and making memories with the kids along the way. Whether it’s floating in a cenote, chasing sunsets across the lagoon, or simply wandering colonial streets with an ice cream in hand, I have so many happy memories (and photos!) from this trip that we’ll talk about for years to come. That’s what this trip was all about.
So pack your sun cream, your sense of adventure, and maybe a great road trip playlist, because your incredible Yucatan road trip is just around the corner.
